'99 Subaru Outback - Modification Log

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This is a log of modifications and experiences relating to my Australian release 1999 Subaru Outback (Gen 3). For those international readers, it seems to be the equivalent of a 2000 Legacy Outback model in the USA. I bought it 2nd hand in good, stock, condition with 200,000kms on the clock. Here's an article on the 2.5 Liberty/Legacy 2nd hand market, published 5 months prior to my purchase.

I've decided to keep a log of the modifications I do to the car, as my research on the web has been frustrating, confusing and sometimes misleading. This log may help other Outback owners shortcut their research process and get things done faster with the advance knowledge that it will actually work.

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Quick Reference - Known Parts List:

Original Upgrade
16546AA070 Air Filter K&N - 33-2154 (AUD$85 shipped from USA)
Add a piezo buzzer to keyless entry AUD$7.65 from Jaycar, catalogue number: AB3456
H1U - High beam globe (H1 Upgraded) Narma Plus 50 H1 - 48334BL2 - AUD$25.00 rrp (pair)
H3 - Fog light globe Narma Plus 30 H3 - 48331BL2 - AUD$15.30 rrp (pair)
H7 - Low beam globe Narma Plus 50 H7 - 48339BL2 - AUD$54.00 rrp (pair)
W5W - Parkers (158,168,194)
Various (LEDs)
Flasher Can - Subaru
No electronic (LED supporting) replacement found as yet.


Quick Reference - Install Guides:

Adding a "noise" to your keyless entry The Gen 3 Outback doesn't flash lights or beep when you lock or unlock it. Here's a guide to installing a simple buzzer for under $10.
Air Filter changeover Changing the stock Subaru paper filter to a K&N 33-2154.
How to access the centre dash area for DIN instalments (LH Drive US Model) A PDF guide made to show how to do stereo upgrades/changes including head unit and speakers.


Handy Info - Did you know?

W5W bulbs (globes) These are the same as 158, 168, 194 bulbs. If you are shopping for W5W LEDs, buy something made to replace a 194, they should be a perfect fit.
P21W bulbs As above, look for 1157 (and 2057) bulb replacements for these P21W jobs. Americans it seems, speak a different language. For brake lights, look for Dual Element bulbs as it needs to work for parkers/tail-lights and braking-lights (we call those P21W/5W).

:::: LATEST ::::
27.06.2005 - Installing a Keyless Entry Beeper
One of the annoying things about the Australian release Gen3 Outback is that the keyless entry (remote lock/unlock) feature doesn't give you any feedback. I don't know about models in other countries, but without a 'beep' or 'flash' of the the lights, you have no idea if the button you just pressed, did indeed lock or unlock your car! The only way to be sure is to be close, and listen really hard, or to test it using a handle.

The common solution was to install an aftermarket security system. It's arming sequence would give you the feedback currently missing. But that is a lot of money to pay for a 'beep'!

Mike (a new user to a forum at MRT) has devised a solution for under AUD$10 !!!

Buy a "Dual Sound Piezo Buzzer 1-13V" from the Jaycar website, stock code AB3456 for AUD$7.95 and follow the instructions below to easily attach it to the locking solenoid in the tailgate. The end result (after modifying Mike's instructions) is a loud 1 second beep when you lock the car and a not so loud 1 secong beep when you unlock. If you wanted a loud beep each way, you'd have to buy two Piezos.


Here's a pic of the Piezo. Note there is a threaded hole in the centre for attachment. Black wire is ground, The yellow wire is meant to be used to create a multiple beeping function, the red for constant tone. In this usage however, the current only passes long enough to emit a short constant tone not matter which wire is utilised. NB: Both red and yellow can be used, one on the "lock" wire and one on the "unlock" wire to get a loud beep on both functions. The only problem is, it will disable the solenoid - which isn't helpful!


1: Remove the interior lining from the tailgate. The dark grey plastic at the top pulls away and there are 5 plastic plugs at the lower edge to undo and remove. Remove the plastic handle at the bottom of the tailgate next to the lock, you will then see locking solenoid and the wiring connector.


2: Remove the locking solenoid wiring connector, it is retained by a locking tab that needs to be squeezed into the connector. There should be enough slack to get the connector through the hole for the handle. There are two wires in the solenoid connector, light green ("lock") and a red with a dark green stripe ("unlock"). You can slide them out of the harness by removing the yellow clip at the back and then using a pin through the front to release the little clip.


3: Connect (I soldered) the red wire on the piezo to the light green "lock" wire. NB. The yellow wire on the piezo is not required, though you can use it instead of the red, but you can't use both. connecting the red piezo wire onto the red/d.green "unlock" wire will cause the loud beep to happen upon unlocking the car, btw.


4: At this point you have two options. Connecting the black earth wire of the piezo to the red/dgreen "unlock" wire will only give you a 'beep' when you lock the car. I extended the piezo earth wire with another length about 40cm (1.5') long and conected it to an earthing point near the rear windscreen wiper motor (see above). This meant I also get a beep (although not as loud) when I unlock the car.


5: Mount the piezo buzzer in the tailgate. I didn't want to interfere with the trim clip holes nor extend the length of all the piezo wires. So the only available mounting hole was one also used by the solenoid bracket. The diameter of the piezo was too large for its centre hole to line up with this point (the bracket gets in the way) so I offset the hole using some dodgey home inginuity. See above pic.


6: Final install.


Click to hear an .mp3 audio recording of the final install.
(loud locking tone, then quieter unlock beep)

09.06.2005 - Bulbs and Flasher Cans
I thought I'd put up some images of the uprated replacement bulbs offered by Narva. Note that these recommendations do NOT apply to USA models. They have a completely different system. I believe Europe use similar bulbs to Australia however, so they may well apply.

     


I've also looked for LED friendly flasher cans for LED indicators. Narva don't make a Subaru replacement model. They do make many LED friendly models however, I wonder if you can use a part that isn't model specific?

07.06.2005 - More LED info & outside temperature display trick
Another hint in the display department. Apparently if you hold down the Exterior Temp button it will display this information continuously too!

Things are getting more interesting in my LED research. Another product from Velocity LEDs has caught my eye. It may be new, or I may have overlooked it, previously thinking it was one of the illegal 'rotating' LED products. I've attached their sales bit and images. Price is US$20.95 a pair. Estimated AUD$36 delivered.

QUOTE from Velocity LEDs:
Dual Element 32 LED 1157 2057 Halo Revolution LED Bulbs
Get Noticed with our all new "Halo Revolution" LEDs. This new high tech design has 24 radial firing LEDs that fire perfectly into the chrome reflectors of your cars lamp assembly, and 8 angled LEDs to fill out the front of the lens. This light is the brightest on the market with a total of 32 leds! Bulb diameter is 1", same as your factory bulb. LEDs have two levels of output, high and low.


Halo Revolution LED Bulbs.

06.06.2005 - Climate control display trick
Did you guys know about the brightness trick for the climate control display? It works on my 99 Outback and I have been told it applies to many models with climate control.

Essentially, I was finding that when I drive around with parkers or lights on during the day, the climate control display dims and I can't read the settings.

Press and hold down the "Off" button of said Climate Controls and ta-da! Brightness returns!

05.06.2005 - Subaru Hayman Reese Tow Pack
I thought I'd add a note to say that a couple of weeks back I had some friends down at Subaru install a tow pack on my car. This is a pretty serious mod for a Gen3 Outback as it involves removing the rear bumper. Then you have to remove the metal rear bar framework and drill through the spotwelds. The heavy tow pack then bolts on before the bar is replaced and bolted back onto the car. Finally the plastic rear bar is cut to allow for the protrusion of the tongue and then also replaced. There's also a little cabling and screwing required to fit the electrics.

The work would take one guy about 2 hours. We had three people lending a hand and we did it in about an hour. I was there for the full install. If you've looked into having a tow pack installed but found the labour costs to be seemingly too high, trust me, it does take serious man hours to get this done. They aren't pulling your leg. Apparently many Subaru tow pack installs are just as difficult, even more recent models.

I didn't take pics of the procedure but I'll post some of the finished product asap.

01.06.2005 - Electronic Flasher Cans for LEDs?
I stumbled across this link that talks about LEDs and Flasher Cans. They seem to think a swap to an electronic flasher can will solve any problems you'll likely get with LED indicators. I'll try to confirm it ASAP.

31.05.2005 - RSS Service started
After someone mentioned it was a good idea, I enabled this page with RSS. It's a basic headline delivery system you can download free software for. Once you subscribe this address, you'll get notified as soon as content is updated on this page. It's pretty cool. Overkill, but cool.

29.05.2005 - LEDs light replacement research
I've started combing the web for replacements bulbs that are actually made up of many LEDs rather than the regular filament bulbs. This is turning out to be a bit of a grey area for shoppers. I'm starting with Brake Lights and have had some minor success in tracking down products, but real information on quality and brightness is proving hard to find. There is also a gaping hole where ADR compliance should fit.

Anyway, the search continues. I have some strong leads, mostly coming out of the USA. Looking on eBay at a company called Velocity LEDs. They have a wide range of products that fit the bill for the Outback (and other Subarus no doubt). You could really spec out your whole car for under $200. My interest still lies primarily with the brake lights and parkers. Indicators would be nice, but the cost is pretty high.

Velocity LEDs

Description Product LEDs US Bulb Subaru
Bulb
eBay Price
Brake Lights Red Super Refractor - Dual Element 25 1157 P21/5W US$ 16.99
Reversing Lights White Super Refractor 25 1157 P21W US$ 24.99
Rear Indicators Amber Super Refractor 25 1157 P21/5W US$ 16.99
Front Indicators Amber Super Refractor 25 1157 P21/5W US$ 16.99
Side Indicators Amber Super Refractor 5 194 W5W US$ 8.99
Parking Lights White Super Refractor HID 5 194 W5W US$ 9.99
Resistor Fix Kits To solve weak current draw problems on main indicators (4 kits @ US$ 4.99 each) - - - US$ 19.96
Total US$ 114.90
Total AUD$ 150.00
plus shipping

I've also been looking into 1157 products offered by LED Shop Online and another eBay seller AutoLEDlights both of which sell a 24 LED dual element tail-light that has radial-firing LEDs for enclosure lighting. They seem to be selling near identical products, but price varies from AUD$20 to AUD$35 a pair.

Please note that I have not bought any products from these companies nor have I tested any of their items. I cannot guarantee any of these products are 100% compatible nor safe. I'm just trying to piece together some information so we have some reference points.

12.10.2004 - Stereo install - Some success
After more thought I decided to make a lift-out shelf for my stacker and amp. Essentially I've built a wooden floor for the spare wheel rim. To this I have mounted the stacker. I've affixed uprights just high enough to clear a second floor level onto which I've mounted the amp.

With this setup I can lift the rear floor and change the stacker cartridge without effort. The only reason to lift the component rack out will be if I get a flat. Cables will all have enough slack to allow for this without drama.

It certainly proved to be a tight fit. Not a centimetre to spare. Once it's all wired up I think to effort will well worth it. Essentially not so much as a scratch to the original interior - pull some wires and the car is stock again. I just had to sacrifice a little storage space.


Shelf in place (half wired). The amp sits almost flush with the lid - a very tight fit.


There is enough clearance to get the stacker cartridge in and out without fuss.


The whole unit lifts out easily. Some padding was added to protect the rim. The corners of the amp mounting legs had to be bent up to fit it inside the rim.

28.09.2004 - Note about a spare key
My Subaru only came with one key. It is a chipped key that is programmed to defeat the engine immobiliser. A duplicate from Subaru with the same feature costs AUD$143.00. You take the blank key to a key cutter and pay another few dollars to get it cut. Then you take your car, both keys and your car-key-ID-number-thing and get them all reprogrammed (included in cost of key).

Alternatively, if you'd like a spare key to get access to you car in every way, except to actually start the engine, you can pay AUD$10 and have a key cutter duplicate your current key. This is what I did. It's cheaper and I've never lost a key before. If I do, I can still get access to the car to assist in getting it towed, or to retrieve items from it.

27.09.2004 - Stereo install - ongoing saga
Subaru Customer Service said that any fitting kit would be a "not for retail sale" item, and they therefore couldn't give me a price. They suggested I ring my local dealer's parts department. I did so, and they said they got the stacker and brackets from Clarion in one pack, and that they could not supply the included fittings without buying the stacker as well. And so - they could not install my stacker. They said to go to a car radio place and get them to install it.

I've decided that they probably use the retail box product supplied from Clarion and the fittings therein. I think they disregard the bolts that come affixed in the floor under the passenger seat, and just cut new holes in the carpet, and use the standard Clarion brackets.

I also think this would block (without care) the rear passenger foot heater vents. This method would only allow the stacker to be mounted facing backwards and allow access to the stacker only by reaching under the passenger seat from the back seat area, with the passenger seat fully forward. Useless.

I'm now looking into a custom mounting under the rear cargo floor (spare wheel well) cover. I may even make an inverted shelf to house both the amplifier and cd-stacker. The end result would be a perfectly stock interior (besides some flush bolts on the carpet in the rear). The inconvenience being I'd have to leave the driver's seat to change the cd cartridge..

21.09.2004 - K&N Filter Arrived from USA - Installation notes etc.
Just one week after ordering, my K&N 33-2154 has arrived from performanceparts.com in the USA (AUD$84.47 including shipping). It came in a big box with lots of padding, and in perfect condition. The box from K&N contained:

  • Air tight plastic wrapped filter (pre-oiled, ready for installation)
  • Filter Box Sticker to alert mechanics
  • Window Sticker
  • Cleaning Instructions
  • Warranty Instructions

Installation took 2 minutes. Photos below. Captions contain more info. I'll purchase some cleaning fluid and K&N oil when cleaning is required. At the moment the car has 208,000kms and it shouldn't need cleaning until I hit 300,000.


Photo of K&N 33-2154 Box contents.


Installation STEP 1. Use tool from your Subaru toolkit to remove one bolt. Unclip 3 air box clips.


Installation STEP 2: Pull apart air box. Pull out paper filter, insert K&N Filter.


Installation STEP 3. Rejoin air box with clips and bolt. Make sure it is back in place straight.


Installation STEP 4. Clean the top of the air box, and stick on your supplied warning sticker.


Use 41ml of K&N oil when servicing filter (every 80,000 - 160,000kms).

14.09.2004 - Update
Shipping from the USA is limited to the Filter only. They won't ship the chemical cleaner or filter oil. Even so, shipping cost from one online store was AUD$40 so I cancelled that order completely. I've confirmed another order with www.performanceproducts.com. The filter shipped today by air mail for AUD$84.47 total.

I've also just heard back from Whiteline regarding a rear anti-roll bar. They haven't produced one for an Outback, but if I can get to their workshop they'll measure the car up and check out the setup. Since they are in Sydney and I'm in Melbourne, that may prove difficult. They are still trying to help as much as possible to get me a good result.

I went into Subaru Interactive @ Docklands yesterday and had a tour with a friend who works there. It is a very nice, modern and professional setup. He also had a look over my car to see if the 200,000km major service had been completed properly by the dealer I bought it off. They did an ok job, though they cheated on transmission fluid. He took me up to the Sti and rally workshops too. Awesome. We still don't know how to install the stacker...


Fancy Subaru Interactive @ Docklands plate covers.


Check out the mini-badge!

13.09.2004 - Necessary Fluids
There are some fluids recommended by Subaru for use in my engine on a regular basis. Upper Engine Cleaner should be applied every service (12,500 kms or 6 months) to clean and purge gum, varnish and carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and induction system. This is something that would be normal procedure in a Subaru Service Centre, but may not be if you get the car serviced elsewhere.

SA718 Fuel Additive should be used every 6,000kms by adding a bottle to a full tank of fuel. It prevents carbon build-up on combustion walls and valves.


Upper Engine Cleaner & SA718.

10.09.2004 - Results on Headlights and K&N Filter
Confirmed with a Subaru mechanic - H1U globes (for high beams) are "Upgraded" H1s. They are not a custom Subaru globe, just the equivalent of a Narva Plus 50. A brighter result from the standard wattage. No need to upgrade to Narva unless one blows.

After a trip to Autobarn today I discovered they wanted to sell me the K&N 33-2031-2 for AUD$129.00. Instead of buying it, came home and measured my filter. It would NOT have fit. The Outback (and probably all Gen3 2.5s) use a bigger air filter. 368mm x 165mm. The K&N Filter I need is a 33-2154. (If in doubt, check the original part number on your current one - it should say 16546AA070).

I've ordered the 33-2154 from the USA along with Air Filter Cleaner & Degreaser - 1.1kg (K&N 99-0621) and Air Filter Oil - 12oz Aerosol (K&N 99-0516). All delivered, I should be up for about AUD$130.00.

08.09.2004 - Photos
Still in the dark about the H1U headlamps. Will ring Subaru this week and confirm. Here's some photos anyway.


Scooby II. 1999 Gen 3 Subaru Outback. Modification free.


Modification free interior. Optional leather wheel, gear shift and handbrake installed. Bonus.


Scooby II, Note the included roof bars. A $200 extra back when it was bought new.

06.09.2004 - Exhaust & Headlights research
After a weekend and 350km already driven, I am still happy. The car is nice, and hopefully it will stay that way. Trying to get real information off the web is proving to be a nightmare. I still don't know what K&N filter I need.

I went to an exhaust place and they think the mandrel bent 2" stock piping is as good as I'm likely to get. Bigger pipe, in their opinion, would be a backward step. $100 for a aftermarket rear exhaust will make it very noisy. Another $100 for a nice tip would dress it up nicely. No word on any performance gain. Sounds like it wouldn't pass noise regulations either. Await further info from the forums.

Have started researching new globes for the front lights. Narva, have a range of ADR and street legal globe upgrades available, but I'm yet to find out if they make a High Beam option that would suit the Outback. The Outback manual lists them as "H1U". Narva only have a "H1" and say although they are "the same in shape" it may "be different in it's performance to a regular H1 but we are not sure how."

  • H7 (Low Beam) Plus 50 48339BL2 - $54.00 rrp (pair)
  • H3 (Fog Lights) Plus 30 48331BL2 - $15.30 rrp (pair)
  • H1 (High Beam) Plus 50 48334BL2 - $25.00 rrp (pair)

Not sure about compatibility of the H1 (H1U listed in manual). A purchase will be delayed until I'm sure.

03.09.2004 - Officially bought and took possession
Well, I'm an owner. No major dramas so far. One headlight was out by the time I got home, already been to the auto-electrician and had that fixed. (Thanks to Jay and Roman for their help in deciding on the car, and to Simon for giving me a ride down to pick it up.)

02.09.2004 - Audio Installation Guide
I've found a .PDF that explains (with photographs) how to access the head unit and front speakers of the Outback for update/modification purposes. You can view it here. I've also read a report about someone mounting an amplifier above the spare wheel under the rear cargo floor. I will investigate this more.

02.09.2004 - Early List of planned Modifications
- Stacker/Amp/Speaker install
- K&N Air Filter (Possible Part Number 33-2154, yet to confirm)
- CatBack Exhaust
- Whiteline Strut Brace
- MRT "Tricky Bits" or equiv. (Torque & Power upgrade via fuel pump swap & dyno tune?)

02.09.2004 - Background
Tomorrow I will pick up my 1999 Subaru Outback (GX). It's a big step up from my 1st and previous car, an 1988 Subaru L Series wagon. I had that car for 7 years and she retired with front-end damage with 305,000kms on the clock.

My new Outback will have all the modern conveniences so obviously lacking in my last car that I'm sure the upgrade will prove a shock to more than just the bank balance. This hasn't dissuaded me from already investigating the possible performance modifications available. Once I ratify some of the part numbers and real-life costs I'll begin posting updates.


The old Scooby - Victim of a hard braking Mitsubishi which had no brake lights.

 

Disclaimer: To the best of my knowledge the information supplied on this website is accurate. I am not a mechanic nor am I a representative of Subaru or any of the parts companies listed herein. I hope only to pass on information I have acquired in good faith from my own experience and third parties.

This Log is maintained by Anthony Edge. I'm a graphic designer (mostly web stuff) and you can find out more about my work and services here.